Spirit of the Day: Penfolds Grange 2017 (Australia)

Penfolds Grange 2017

Penfolds Grange 2017 is a distinguished Australian red wine produced by the historic Penfolds winery. This vintage is notable for being one of the few in the brand's history to be crafted from 100 percent Shiraz grapes. Sourced from premium vineyards in the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, it represents the pinnacle of the Penfolds house style.

Producer History

The history of Penfolds began in 1844 when English physician Christopher Rawson Penfold and his wife, Mary Penfold, settled in Magill near Adelaide. They established a stone cottage named The Grange and began planting vine cuttings brought from France and England to produce medicinal tonics and fortified wines. Over the following century, the company evolved into a global powerhouse of winemaking, driven by a lineage of innovators including Alf Vesey, Ray Beckwith, and Max Schubert.

Product History

Max Schubert created the first experimental vintage of Grange in 1951 after a transformative trip to Bordeaux, where he sought to create a long-lasting Australian wine. Although management initially ordered him to cease production in 1957 due to poor commercial reception, Schubert continued his work in secret until 1959, when the quality of his aged wines finally convinced the board to resume production. The 2017 vintage was shaped by a cooler, wetter growing season that resulted in a later harvest and more gradual ripening. This specific release spent 18 months aging in new American oak hogsheads, which imparts the signature coconut and vanilla notes associated with the brand.

Taste Profile

Appearance: The wine displays a deep, intense ruby color that reflects its concentration and depth.

Aroma/Nose: The bouquet is highly refined, featuring notes of black tea leaves, sage, and tart boysenberry, complemented by the classic Grange character of coconut, vanilla, and dill.

Palate: The palate is tightly wound with a prominent acid line and firm, precise tannins, offering flavors of blackberry, dark chocolate, and subtle spices.

Finish: The finish is deep and long, characterized by a persistent mineral quality and fresh acidity that keeps the fruit flavors vibrant.

Overall Character: This vintage is described as a cooler-toned, elegant, and slow-evolving wine that prioritizes structural tension over sheer power, making it more approachable than many of its predecessors.

Review

The Penfolds Grange 2017 has received significant acclaim from professional critics, holding an average score of 97 points based on assessments from Ken Gargett, the Tastingbook Tasting Team, and the aggregated professional reviews tracked by Best of Wines.

Serving Guide

Glassware: Large Bordeaux-style glass | Serving temperature: 16 to 18 degrees Celsius | ABV: 14.5%

Serving Suggestions

• Decant the wine for at least two hours before serving to allow the complex aromas to fully open.
• Serve at a cool room temperature to ensure the acidity and fruit balance remain intact.

Food Pairings

• Roasted lamb with rosemary and garlic, as the savory herbs complement the wine's sage and tea notes.
• Aged hard cheeses like vintage cheddar or parmesan, which stand up well to the wine's firm tannins.
• Rich, slow-cooked beef dishes or game meats, which match the intensity and depth of the Shiraz fruit.