Producer Spotlight of the Day: Margarita Forés

Margarita Forés

Margarita Forés was a pioneering Filipino chef and restaurateur whose work transformed the dining landscape in the Philippines. Known affectionately as "Gaita," she was celebrated for her ability to blend authentic Italian techniques with the vibrant, fresh ingredients of her home country, leaving an indelible mark on the global culinary stage.

Background

Born on March 23, 1959, in Manila, Margarita Araneta Forés did not begin her career with formal culinary training. Her journey into the professional kitchen began in 1986 when she traveled to Italy. There, she immersed herself in the local food culture, learning the nuances of Italian cooking from experts such as Masha Innocenti in Florence, Jo Bettoja in Rome, and Ada Parasiliti in Milan. Before opening her own restaurants, she gained foundational experience as a caterer, managing events with a small team—a role that taught her the discipline and logistics required to scale a culinary business.

Signature Work

Forés is perhaps best known for founding Cibo in 1997, a restaurant chain that introduced Filipinos to high-quality, accessible Italian comfort food. Beyond Cibo, she expanded her influence with concepts like Grace Park, which championed a farm-to-table philosophy, and Lusso, an elegant champagne bar. She was also a passionate advocate for Philippine ingredients, famously showcasing local flavors like kinilaw—a traditional Filipino raw seafood dish—on the international stage at Madrid Fusion. Her commitment to sustainability was equally notable, as she worked closely with local farmers and fisherfolk to promote ethical sourcing, including the use of Marine Stewardship Council-certified Philippine yellowfin tuna.

Philosophy

Her approach to the craft was defined by a deep respect for tradition paired with a modern, innovative spirit. Forés believed in the power of food to connect people and cultures. Whether she was preparing a classic Italian pasta or a traditional Filipino dish, her focus remained on the integrity of the ingredients and the warmth of the dining experience. She was widely regarded as a mentor and a "second mom" to her staff, leading her teams with a blend of professional rigor and genuine personal care.

Recognition

Forés received numerous accolades throughout her distinguished career. In 2016, she was named Asia’s Best Female Chef by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Her contributions to diplomacy and tourism were recognized in 2018 when she was named Cavaliere dell’Ordine della Stella d’Italia (Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy), and in 2019, she served as a United Nations Ambassador for Gastronomic Tourism. She passed away on February 11, 2025, at the age of 65, leaving behind a legacy that continues to inspire the next generation of chefs.

Signature Recipe

Classic Kinilaw

A refreshing and bright Filipino ceviche that highlights the freshness of local seafood with a tangy, citrus-based marinade.

Prep time: 20 min | Cook time: 0 min | Total time: 20 min | Yield: 4 servings | Difficulty: Easy

Ingredients

• 500g fresh tanigue (Spanish mackerel) or any firm white fish, cubed
• 150ml coconut vinegar
• 1 tbsp ginger, minced
• 1 small red onion, finely chopped
• 2 bird's eye chilies, sliced
• 1 tsp sea salt
• 1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
• 1 tbsp calamansi juice

Instructions

1. Clean the fish thoroughly and cut it into uniform 1-inch cubes.
2. In a non-reactive glass bowl, combine the fish with the sea salt and ginger.
3. Pour the coconut vinegar and calamansi juice over the fish, ensuring the pieces are well-coated.
4. Add the red onion and chilies, tossing gently to combine.
5. Let the mixture sit for 10 to 15 minutes; the acid in the vinegar will "cook" the fish, turning the flesh opaque.
6. Season with black pepper and serve immediately while chilled.

Notes

Serve this dish as an appetizer alongside crispy pork belly or steamed rice. For a richer flavor, some variations include a splash of coconut milk to balance the acidity of the vinegar.